SKIN DEEP So it’s not surprising that makers of lasting hair color have long sought an ammonia-free alternative that offers thorough gray coverage and a less unpleasant experience. .......... Some demi-permanent hair dyes “claim to be ammonia-free,” said Ms. Abrams, who tried INOA at no charge on Feb. 11 and reports that her golden brown hue has stayed true. “But they aren’t permanent.” That is, they gradually fade and don’t uniformly cover gray.............. At least two other ammonia-free permanent hair colors are already used in salons. One called Organic Color Systems, made by Herb UK, a company based in Lymington, England, has been available stateside since 2002, .......... Mastey De Paris, a family business in Valencia, Calif., has offered a zero-ammonia permanent hair dye called Teinture. It “gently opens” the hair shaft with a proprietary amino-acid based alkaline agent, so there’s no MEA, either, said Erick Calderon, the vice president for business development..........
Taking on Ammonia - Hair Color's Bad Guy
New York Times Article on INOA & Mastey
By Catherine Saint Louis
Published: March 10, 2010
PERMANENTLY dyeing hair goes hand in hand with damaging it. The process dries out hair and leaves it jagged. Ammonia - used to open the hair fiber so that dye molecules can nestle in - is as delicate as a can opener. It also smells horrid and sets delicate scalps afire..........
“To say we don’t need ammonia in permanent hair color is a big deal,” said Lotus Abrams, the executive editor at American Salon magazine, a trade publication. For 50 years — if not longer — it’s been a given that lasting hair dye requires ammonia, so its ghastly odor must be endured. “When you go to the salon and it doesn’t smell, it’s just better for the customer, it’s better for salon staff.”
“In time, women will go into a salon and ask, ‘What color do you use? Does it have ammonia?’ ”
http://tinyurl.com/Mastey-in-NYT

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